Quark 2M - Back to cutting innocent trees!

[DannyChapman]

Thanks - yes, I was planning on doing that anyway (possibly making a hinge with rod & tube, so long as I have enough). But my concer was that the tip of the fuselage is supported by not that much fuselage - just the section underneath the curved slot. It twists more easily than I would like.

I'm actually in the process of sheeting the fin (I have some nice 1/32" sheet from long long ago) with the grain running vertically. Hopefully that should stiffen up the bottom of the fin, and therefore reduce the twistability...

[johnfireball]

Hey Danny, I sheeted the fin with 1/32 and with the rod it's plenty strong. It's a slow flyer anyway so not much stress. I just plug in the elevators which are a bit stiff and they hold ok only move out on landing. If they're loose rub a bit of impact adhesive on the rod to give a bit of grip.

[DannyChapman]

I had just sheeted the fin with 1/32, dry fitted it, and liked the improvement, when I saw your post - so all is good. With the rod as well it should be fine. Thanks for the info about the elevators too.

[Nhalyn]

Rudder should be sheeted ? I've not done on mine... 

I've add carbon plate 3x1mm at the rear end of the rudder for the full height and also a small part in the rudder leading edge at the basis. Seems enough strong for me.

[Fred]

Hi Danny, welcome here

Sorry, I'm coming after the battle, but no reports of any rudder issues.
Like John, (but without the block) I glued a 4mm carbone tube along the rudder. Landed a few times on the back (ooppss!) and never broke anything

I was also thinking making the rudder removable, and use the 4mm tube as the hinge... But never did it.

As far as I know, very few people, if any, sheeted the rudder. Once covered, it's much stronger. but no arm in doing it anyway!

[Nhalyn]

Hi guys !
Some news from the battlefield...

Here is a ready to fly fuse... And believe me, this box contains a full pair of wing... 

Well, with a little touch of glue, looks better...
Note that I've add some cross ribs Inside the ailerons and now they are perfectly torsion rigid for nothing more in weight. Perfect for high rools rates !

Right wing is now ready for sanding and covering.

[DannyChapman]

That looks good. I think I may adopt your cross-bracing on the ailerons.

I have a numpty question - what do people use/favour for covering? Oracover/Profilm or Solarfilm? Is Oralight too, well, light? Do I need to treat the wood before covering or will that just add unnecessary weight?

The last wood glider I made was a Phase 6 (still going strong, fibreglassed), and before that either tissue or nylon & dope planes. I'm a bit behind the times...

[Nhalyn]

Mine is covered with oracover without threatment, not neccessary.

Oralight is lighter but also more fragile.
Solarfilm is still good...

[Nhalyn]

What looks likes a left wing inside ?

[Fred]

Hi Danny,

Mine was covered with the cheapo hobbyking semi transparent covering. Worked well.
Otherwise, same as Nhalyn, Oracover or solar are good choices 

[Nhalyn]

some news ?
It's finished !
(Well, need to create control horn and command for ailerons, and setting center of gravity, but that's all, folks...)

Is it yellow cub or yellow duck ?

QUARK !!! 

[DannyChapman]

I'm getting there!

[Fred]

These 2 Quarks are coming along nicely!

[Nhalyn]

Good !

Mine is fully sheeted on the wings.

Final weight is 1.6kg ready to fly.

I need a slope, urgently...

[mario]

Maybe monday